An Intimate Look Along the Alakai Swamp Trail
The Alakai Swamp Trail on Kauai is hike best done slowly and with the senses alive. The end view at Kilohana Vista is often never realized due to clouds and fog, but the beauty of this trail is not in the distant view-- it' in the up close. The intimate look at the unique plants is a botanist dream. The sound of the birds is a symphonic high. The feeling of the mist and wind on your skin is a complete change to that of the ocean and beaches below. The scent of the flora as it dries in the ephemeral sunlight is blessing to be cherished in the moment and in memory.
As you walk the trail look at the little things that are all around you. Some are fluffy and others prickly.
Life is all around you.
In all different stages and ages and many, many shades of green.
Because the Alakai Swamp Trail rail leads through an Hawaiian rainforest and bog, much of the path follows planks and boardwalk, some of which are in decay.
The chaos of the rainforest can be overwhelming. It's quite easy to trip or slip as you travel, awestruck, through this wondrous world of green.
In most sections of descent and ascent the boardwalk breaks off into fern-lined steps.
The planks become squeezed by mosses, ginger, tree ferns, and ohia trees.
There is one easy stream crossing as the trail descends an Ohia grove and then rises to the swamp a few hundred feet above.
Nene crossing in the boggy-foggy Alakai Swamp.
If you are lucky you'll see Nene, Apapane, I'iwi and maybe even a Pueo along the trail. The trail is an absolute birders paradise.
A pueo flies high above the Alakai Swamp Trail in Koke'e State Park, Kauai.
A Pueo or Hawaiian Short Eared Owl stands in an Ohia tree near the Alakai Swamp and Pihea Trail junction.
An Ohia Lehua flower shines in a brief moment of sunlight on the Alakai Swamp Trail.
Shades of green and a symphony of life can be seen all along the Alakai Swamp Trail.
While walking the Alakai Swamp Trail stay flexible in body and mind. Some steps are bit creative!
Nearing the Kilohana Vista where an old wooden platform and (most likely) heavy clouds will welcome you.
The Way back? This way, please.
A tree fern to unfurl soon.
Relax and Unwind along the Alakai Swamp Trail.
One last look at one of the many interesting little things that you will see along this wonderful trail.
Time to head home.
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All photos in this post were taken on April 28, 2020. While on this day I was unable to see Hanalei Bay from the Kilohana Vista I have seen it before-- at sunrise, during the middle of the day and just before sunset, too. If you are going solely for the view, then I would say go as early as possible. But if you are going for the overall feeling of joy, then go whenever the time is right for you. Happy hiking!
Aloha,
Lee
Kauai Lockdown Walks
Where Does this Road End, Waimea, Kauai
Since the lockdown began-- and after I self quarantined following my return from Bolivia-- I've been taking long walks up a local hill. Most every day, and mostly in the evenings I slip on my sneakers; grab a camera or two and head up the hill. Most days I take my 300mm +1.4 extender (in case I see an owl along the way). I usually pair it with a 70-200 for scenics and clouds. The walks are more about clearing my head than photography. But if it looks to be a stellar sunset, then I'll take a tripod along just to be ready.
Evening Pueo, Waimea, Kauai
Some days I handle the lockdown better than others. On the good days I'm productive: going through images; editing files; writing posts; communicating with clients. On other days I spend too much time watching Netflix. I'm currently watching The Office, Outlander, a drug show on Amazon Prime (I think it's called Zero, and Vida on Hulu. I am also doing a little reading, and think I will dive into some of my old favorites like Desert Solitaire and Zen Mind, Beginner's Mind in the next few days. Naomi and I also complete another Charlie Harper 1,000 piece jigsaw puzzle. This one was The Mountains of the Pacific Northwest. We have The Desert Mountains of California on backorder with Amazon. It should arrive with cat food first week of May.
Clouds, Waimea, Kauai
Somedays I feel like I'm stuck in a break up song. Except it's a break up with the world around me. A break up with the nature I love. A breakup with the freedom of movement that I have (perhaps) taken for granted. In a way it's even a breakup with my gallery. I don't go in everyday. The chorus of the song is an abrupt end to old routines replaced with new ones that can so easily lead to anxiety.
An Empty Space, Waimea, Kauai
This is why the evening walks have become so important to me. The walks, the sweat, the nature, the talks with Naomi keep me sane. Sure, I worry and I fret the politics and economics, but these two hours in the evening help me manage the thoughts, imaginations, and fears. The worries and fears don't disappear, but they diminish in importance when compared to everything natural that is around me.
Niihau, Waimea, Kauai
West Side Idyllic, Waimea Kauai
What's keeping you sane during the lockdown? What new routine are you adding to your life that helps you stay healthy? What "walks" are you taking? What fears do you have? You are not alone. I am with you. Your neighbors are with you. The world is with you. We are all going through this together. As the soccer anthem sings You Will Never Walk Alone.
The Road Walked, Waimea, Kauai
The Things Seen, Waimea, Kauai
Windblown in the Evening Light, Waimea, Kauai
Stay healthy. Stay positive. And know that we walk together.
Aloha,
Lee
PS-- If you have any good NETFLIX recommendations let me know! Mahalo :-)
Big Sky and Huckleberry Pie
I made my first trip to Glacier National Park in the early summer of 2012. June to be exact. I remember the Going to the Sun Road wasn't yet open, so we had to drive the long way around from the west side to the Many Glacier side every time we wanted to hike in the St. Mary's or the Swiftcurrent Lake area. And every drive we made we would always stop and have Huckleberry Pie. My first memories of Montana then, are of big nature, wild animals, and delicious pies.
Light Falls on Lake Macdonald, Glacier National Park, Montana (June 2012)
The Beauty of Youth, Glacier National Park, Montana (June 2016)
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I've been back a few times since my first trip, once in October 2016, and twice in 2018 (August and September). And believe it or not, I have still to drive the Going toe the Sun Road in its entirety. In August 2018, wild fires closed much of the park and the Going to the Sun Road was inaccessible. Later in 2018, when I visited again in October, a snowstorm closed the entire park and I arrived to 6 inches of snow and a closed gate. I don't think I even had any huckleberry pie on that trip I was in such a hurry to beat the storm. I had visions of waking up in Many Glacier to a scene of fresh fallen snow. But alas, it was nay to be.
The season's first big snowstorm keeps me at Glacier's gates. Glacier National Park, Montana (October 2018)
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Glacier will always be special to me for a couple of reasons. One, after that first trip back in 2016 I arrived back home to Kauai and decided that I wanted to be a nature photographer. The nature and sheer wildness of Glacier made such a strong impression on me the I knew what I really wanted to do: get out in nature and take photographs. I now know that I need to communicate-- with camera and lens-- what nature is communicating to me. Sometimes it's the energy in a moose's eye. At others it's the stillness of a lake lying quiet. But it's always the feeling of nature's energy.
Cow Moose at Lunch, Glacier National Park, Montana (October 2016)
Bull Moose, Glacier National Park, Montana (October 2016)
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Another reason I will always remember Glacier National Park is because in 2016 I watched the Chicago Cubs beat the Los Angeles Dodgers to win the 2016 National League Pennant, and they went on to win the 2016 World Series-- their first title in 108 years (Go Cubs Go! Go Cubs Go! Hey Chicago! What do you say? The Cubs are gonna win today.)!!! It was also the wettest fall on record and we got rained on pretty much every day except one (see the fine day below). But the family dinners complete with beer from The Great Northern Brewing Company and the baseball made up for the cold wet days in the park.
Many Glacier Glass, Glacier National Park, Montana (October 2016)
A Gentle Curve, Glacier National Park, Montana (October 2016)
Hidden by Fog, Glacier National Park, Montana (October 2016)
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The third lasting memory that I have of Glacier is that of water and waterfalls. Hikes to Iceberg Lake, Avalanche lake and alongside flowing glacial streams are all a little part of me now. Perhaps it's because I have never driven the Going to the Sun Road, but for me Glacier is more about water than mountains.
The Icy Blue Waters of Avalanche Gorge, Glacier National Park, Montana (October 2016)
Glacial Flow, Glacier National Park, Montana (October 2016)
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The final memory of Glacier is that of two books: God is Red by Vine Deloria and Grizzly Years by Doug Peacock. I bought God is Red at the St. Mary's visitor center and red it as soon as I returned home. This book has helped me to understand (a little) about the importance of place to spirituality. And Grizzly Years I bought after seeing it in a bookshop in Kalispell or Whitefish. This book has helped me to feel more at home in the vast wildernesses of Earth. And both books have influenced and deepened the respect that I have for the critters with whom we share this beautiful world.
A Sit-down with the Boss, Glacier National Park, Montana (October 2016)
A Long and Beautiful Face, Glacier National Park, Montana (October 2016)
***
Finito.
Aloha,
Lee
The 5 Most Beautiful Places I Have Ever Been
Quarantine.
Stay-at-Home Orders.
Travels cancelled or postponed.
This is the time we live in now, but it will not always be like this.
We will be able to travel again soon, and I'm sure many of you are already planning your next adventure, waiting with fingers crossed for a time when we will be able to get out and play again. Here's a blog post dedicated to those beautiful places that call us to explore.
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A few days ago on Instagram I posted a photo of Laguna Colorada in the Bolivian Altiplano, and in the caption I wrote that it was one of the prettiest places that I had ever seen. I thought I could narrow down all the beautiful places that I have been fortunate to visit into a list of the top 5 prettiest places. But at the time I could not, and I ended up with a 5 or 6 way tie for 5th. I know. I wimped out. But I have found the courage to complete the task. Here is my top 5 most beautiful places.
1. Kauai, Hawaii
Kalalau Clouds, Kauai, Hawaii
I start the list with my home island, Kauai. The natural beauty here is simply off the charts. The greens and the blues give a healing quality to the landscape and the energy here just feels good. When thinking of this list the feeling of the places became very important to me. Thinking about how being somewhere makes me feel. And being on Kauai just feels good. I've been all over the island to photograph and I think the most beautiful places are Kalalau Lookout (photo above), Hanalei Bay (below) and Ke'e Beach, looking towards the Na Pali Coast and the dancing waves that at times mosh and at others delicately pirouette.
A Perfect Day in Hanalei, Kauai, Hawaii
Hanalei Bay is the happy place. I don't photograph here too much because it's not a place to work. It's a place to enjoy. It's the place to take a long walk on the beach and figure things out. To sit with wifey and friends with a cooler and towel. To play. To live. To be.
Dance at the Bay, Kauai, Hawaii
Lastly, if you catch Ke'e beach on the right day this place just gives and gives and gives. The mana or energy is so powerful to be spiritual. I like it best in the fall when you might catch the waves jumping towards the rugged cliffs of the Na Pali Coast. At this time of the year the light is exceptional and the side/through light of the evening can really light up the ocean waves as they rise through the air.
When Conditions Are Right, Kauai, Hawaii
Alive, Kauai, Hawaii
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2. Yosemite Valley, Yosemite National Park, California
Yosemite Valley in Spring is nature's perfection. Standing at Tunnel View, looking out over the valley and seeing El Capitan on the left, Half Dome in the middle, and Bridal Falls on the right is seeing symphony of symmetry. It is absolutely awe inspiring.
Dreamworld, Yosemite NP, California
Light enters the valley and plays with the many waterfalls, creating rainbows in the day and moon bows at night.
The Bridal Veil, Yosemite NP, California
Moonbow Chasing, Yosemite NP, California
And while Yosemite is certainly no secret, you can still find quiet scenes to have all to yourself. Here, you can contemplate the serenity instilled by the granite walls that are all around you. And in the fall you can appreciate the quiet calm brought by this magnificent local as the Merced runs slow and offers time of reflection. The overall feeling of Yosemite is inspiration.
Merced Run Slow, Yosemite NP, California
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3. Laguna Colorada, the Bolivian Altiplano, Bolivia
Laguna Colorada in Reserve Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa, a Bolivian national park very near to the Chilean border, is incredible. It's water is the color of burnt-orange and rust-red. It's full of rare flamingos-- James's, Andean, and Chilean flamingos. And 16,000 foot mountains surround it. Vicunas roam it's shore and play in the valleys that lead to its shallow waters. The feeling of the place is newness, like what the Earth was like when it was new.
One of the Prettiest Places I Have Ever Been, Laguna Colorada, Bolivia
When the Earth was New, Laguna Colorada, Bolivia
The flamingos flying around this lake really helped to put this place on the list. The scenic beauty is incredible, but the flamingos give the place life and a relatable splendor.
Walk on Water, Laguna Colorada, Bolilvia
James's Flamingo Gliding By, Laguna Colorada, Bolivia
The surrounding area of the Reserve is raw and surreal. The weather volatile. It is a place where you believe that you may find something that you have never yet seen. It is incredibly fresh and new and even a little playful.
Hey There, the Altiplano, Bolivia
The Altiplano, Laguna Colorada, Bolivia
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4. Denali National Park, Alaska
A Sunny Summer Day in Denali, Denali National Park, Alaska
Alaska is the wildest place I have ever been and Denali National Park may just be the wildest place in Alaska. Big mountains. Big vistas. Big wildlife. The place is just so wild and awesome.
Denali Park Road, Denali National Park, Alaska
Denali is a park that rewards those who persevere. If you are looking for wildlife, dome days you don't even see a bear's butt. But on other days you see Toklat Blonde Grizzlies, Caribou, Moose, Wolf, Ground Squirrels, Beavers, lynx (I haven't yet seen one in Denali, but I've heard they are there...), snow hare, porcupine, and so much more! And when the weather is clear the mountain views of the Brooks Range are uplifting. I've said before that seeing Denali or the mountain is like seeing God. It makes sense that Denali means "The High One" because seeing it is indeed a spiritual experience. On some days Denali is like a storybook land whose pages are full of nature's gospel. Church.
Alpen Glow, Denali National Park, Alaska
Caribou Crusing, Denali National Park, Alaska
Northern Lights, Denali National Park, Alaska
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5. The Santa Cruz Trek, Cordillera Blanca, Peru
To this day the best hike I have ever done is the day hike to Laguna 69 and the best through hike or backpack is the Santa Cruz Trek. Better than the Teton Crest Trail, better than Tombstone and better even than the Kalalau Trail. Here is a glimpse of Laguna 69.
The Magic Triangle of Laguna 69, Cordillera Blanca, Peru
And waterfalls that we passed on the way...
Nature is Awesome, Cordillera Blanca, Peru
The Santa Cruz trek was a difficult hike with several high altitude passes, the highest of which was Punta Union Pass at 4,750 meters above sea level. Here's a look on a cloudy day from atop the pass (best lunchtime view I've ever had).
Circle of Blue, Santa Cruz Trek, Peru
Looking back at the trip now, I realize that this was my first time real experience in a big wilderness area. And now I just want more and more.
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Mahalo for reading. What's your Top Five? I'd love to hear about them in the comments section below. I'm always looking to add to the list!
Stay well and be safe!
Aloha,
Lee
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To see more photos of Ke'e Beach and Kauai seascapes, please click here.
To see more photos of Yosemite National Park, please click here.
To see more photos of Laguna Colorada, please click here.
To see more photos of Denali National Park, please click here.
And to see more photos of the Santa Cruz Trek, please visit the Travels gallery here.
A Few Birds of Hawaii
Manu is Hawaiian for bird. And here in Hawaii my favorite birds are the Pueo (Hawaiian Short Eared Owl), Moli (Laysan Albatross), and the Iwa (Great Frigate Bird). You can find these birds-- and more!-- on my home island of Kauai. If you are a birder you'll love Kauai. On your visit be sure to check out the Kilauea Lighthouse, which is a wildlife refuge where you will be sure to find Boobies, Moli (in season), Shearwaters, Petrels, Nene and Iwa. There are also two other bird sanctuaries on Kauai-- one on the north shore and one on the far west side. At these spots you'll likely find a few Hawaiian Ducks, Hawaiian Stilts, lots of Nene and Night Crowned Herons. And don't forget about Koke'e State Park. Here you'll be sure to find the Apapane and, if you're lucky, the I'iwi (Hawaiian Honey Creepers) and several other endemic species. And roosters, you'll see those everywhere.
Now, let's look at some pictures.
First, my favorites-- Pueo.
Aumakua Pueo
Pueo Prepares for Flight
Jump!
We have barn owls, too!
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Now, our seasonal friends-- the Moli (Laysan Albatross). I love these birds. They have such beautiful eyes!!!
Moli
Free
Courtship
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And for the arial acrobats, the Iwa.
Wings
Iwa!
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Hawaii's state bird, the Nene.
Nene, Hawaiian Goose
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And a few boobies...
Yo!
Juvi
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And lastly an Apapane
Apapane and Pali
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To see more of these manu come to Kauai! or click the link here.
Finito.
Aloha,
Lee