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Aloha and welcome to a little blog about photography, travel, recent readings, and of course, Kauai. I hope you enjoy the observations, perspectives and images. Thanks for visiting. Aloha, Lee A Life Changing Adventure-- The Kalalau Trail
Do a Google search of the best hikes in the world and 8 out of the 10 results will include the Kalalau Trail. And most will likely have it at, or near the top of the list. For me, I rank it right up there with The Teton Crest Trail in Wyoming and The Santa Cruz Trek (with side hike to Laguna 69) in Peru as the best hikes/ overnight treks that I have ever done.
As the Kalalau progresses you soon find it's rhythm: Climb up stones and mud to level off atop a sea cliff. Then descend down into a valley, crossing streams and no name waterfalls. Kalalau Trail, Mile 1.5, July 2020. In both July and August 2020 I followed my own advice and camped at Hanakoa on the way in and on the way out. I found this itinerary to be much more enjoyable-- especially since I carried two cameras, tripod, filters, tabis, all of our camping gear, and half of our food. :-)
One of the Many Little Waterfalls at Hanakoa, The Kalalau Trail, Mile 6.25, August 2020. Hanakoa is at mile 6 of the 11 mile long Kalalau Trail. If nothing more it is a nice place to rest before continuing on to Kalalau. For others it's a reasonable place to make camp, and overnight before the heat of the day really sets in. If you do decide to camp here, keep in mind that there are two camping areas: one before Hanakoa stream, and a second is to be found after crossing the steam and climbing above the fast flowing waters of Hanakoa Valley. Both of the main campsites have a covered pavilion and picnic table, but only the first camping area (Ha'ena side) has a vault toilet. The Kalalau side does not have a toilet. This means that if you choose to camp on the Kalalau side of Hanakoa stream, you will have to cross the stream every time you wish to use the toilet. Both campsites are fine, and I have camped at both. Generally I choose to camp on the side closest to where I am going-- on the way in to Kalalau I choose the Kalalau Side. And on the way out, I choose the Ha'ena side. While I enjoyed my nights at Hanakoa, Hanakoa Valley (and indeed, all of the valleys along the Kalalau Trail) can be quite "buggy." So bug spray (Deet) and mosquito coil are recommended. We kept a mosquito coil burning pretty much our entire time at Hanakoa and didn't have any mosquito problems. If you can find space in your pack, I would take definitely take some.
After a night of blissfully listening to the rushing waters of Hanakoa stream we woke up inside a wet tent and I made a quick breakfast of mango oatmeal, coffee and energy gel. We then break camp, load our packs and begin our hike from Hanakoa to Kalalau. 5 miles ahead of us and we are a little nervous and excited for what awaits. Soon after climbing out of Hanakoa Valley, we turn the corner and see ocean blue before descending into another valley. The trail is loose and overgrown but we are soon out onto another exposed cliff. Yet this one seems a little different. It's a little wilder, a little steeper and I approach it with much more caution. Yep, we've come to mile 7-8, perhaps the most dangerous section of trail, one that culminates with "Crawler's Ledge" and will test us both mentally and physically.
Miles 7-8 of the Kalalau Trail, Mile 7, July 2020 In 2013 this section of trail terrified me. No joke. I was scared. I actually got a crick in my neck from walking the entire trail, but especially here because I refused to look down towards the oceanside. Instead, I craned my neck to look down to where the cliff met the trail, refusing to allow anything else into view. But in July 2020, on the drive to Ke'e beach, I had a little pep talk with myself, telling myself that I would respect the trail, respect the mountain and respect the ocean below. But I wasn't going to give it my fear. And I wasn't going to give it my power. This, as well as hiking with Naomi, really helped. Now, after a few times over this section in the past couple of weeks Mile 7-8 is actually one of the funner parts of the trail. Yes, it is narrow. And the drop is real, but it ain't nothin' to give your fear to. Please, don't let this section, or any other section prevent you from hiking to Kalalau. You'll be OK and your life will be better for the trek, the effort, the courage, and for the respect given to the trail, the mountain, the ocean, and the Na Pali Coast Wilderness Area. The views along the Kalalau Trail, especially after Hanakoa Valley are truly stunning.
Wild goats keep you company along the trail. Keep your ears and eyes open for their call and cliffside runs. Kalalau Trail, Mile 9.5, August 2020
After arriving at Kalalau Beach we chose a permitted campsite in "the woods" about a a half mile after crossing Kalalau Stream. All of the campsites in the permitted wooded area are quiet, and most of the campers here hiked in. Closer towards the main portion of Kalalau Beach, by the waterfall (shower!), the campsites tend to be a little more populated and can be noisy as many boaters tend to arrive-- especially on the weekends and likely, without permits-- with partying on their mind. Please, I encourage you to keep this area wild. Get permits; hike or Kayak in and out; and leave no trace. If you do decide to boat in, please, do so legally and take out what you bring in. Respect sacred Kalalau. Mahalo nui loa.
A Rainbow Falls into Kalalau Valley, Kalalau Valley, July 2020 The weather moves in and out all along the trail, catching on the mountains and rain showers often pass, offering blessings to the hikers and the landscape alike. Hope for an hour or two of rain one day and use the time to rest, listening to the rain tap-tap against the tent or lush foliage of the valley.
If you have the energy, explore the Valley Trail to Big Pool. I didn't make it back there until my third trip to Kalalau, but Big Pool because it a really cool spot. Think short hike to a cold mountain stream where you can frolic and sun on the warm rocks of the valley wall while listening to a tropical waterfall.
Coming out of the valley to catch a rainbow, Kalalau Valley, July 2020.
Going to Kalalau is like entering a new dimension. Sea Cave, Kalalau Beach. August 2020
Night Sky above Kalalau Beach, July 2020. Hiking The Kalalau Trail is truly a life changing experience. You truly become part of the landscape and by extension the entire experience becomes a part of you, never to be removed. Get your permits here at the State of Hawaii Department of Land and Natural Resources. Random Notes.... When packing, go as light as possible. Consider only taking a few items of clothing. It really isn't going to be cold out there unless if you are doing night or very early morning photography. If you are walking around, hiking, exploring then I don't think you will ever be cold. So no need for hoodies or anything like that. You may want to consider a light rain jacket though as it will rain and if it is windy one morning before sunrise you can always throw it on to block the wind. If you are going for photography take everything that you think you may need because you may not ever make it back there again. I find a wide angle zoom (16-35) and a medium, telephoto zoom (70-200) to be very useful. I carried the following gear in July and August 2020:
I carried all cameras and camping gear in an F Stop Gear Tilopa pack and F Stop Gear tripod bag. In 2013 I used a Clik Elite bag and carried a Canon 5D3 and a Canon 16-35, f/2.8 II. If you were to only carry one lens I would go with a wide angle zoom. Wider the better out here because the mountains are so close to you. October 2013 Trip-- 3 Days and 2 Nights (Kalalau x2) July 2020 Trip-- 4 Days and 3 Nights (Hanakoa- Kalalau x2- Hanakoa) August/September Trip-- 5 Days and 6 Nights (Hanakoa- Kalalau x3- Hanakoa) In July and August 2020 we ate Trailtopia backcountry food for most of our meals. I really love this company and their delicious vegetarian meals. You can find their products here at Trailtopia.com I used a MSR Hubba Bubba 2P Tent, Patagonia quilt, and Nemo inflatable sleeping pad and pillow. Hammocks are popular sleeping options, but be prepared for rain. Tabis (felt soled neoprene booties) are useful for the stream crossings as they add safety to otherwise sneaky tricky sections of trail. Slippahs are a luxury for camp and are highly recommended. They are comfy, and they let your feet dry out. A clothesline is also useful to hang dry any wet items like socks, shirts, swim shorts, etc... A medicine kit and duct tape/athletic tape are also recommended. This may come in handy in all kinds of various situations. Check out Naomi's hiking boots from our July 2020 hike. She had a massive blowout right at mile 7-- on the way in! We had to make several repairs at different times both on the trail and at camp. Thank goodness we had tape and a positive attitude!
*** If you would like to see more images from my hikes to Kalalau click the link here, The Kalalau Trail. Likewise, if you have any questions about the hike, my experiences or the gear I took, please feel free to reach out to me in the comments section below. I would love to hear about your experiences as well. Mahalo and happy trails! Aloha, Lee PS-- All mileage is approximate.
Images of Energy: The Mana of Kauai from Ocean to Trail
Above you will see the cover of my new photo book, Images of Energy: The Mana of Kauai from Ocean to Trail. This book features over 100 photographs from my favorite beaches, hikes and wild places of Kauai. The hardcover 10"x8" photo book contains 112 pages, and is printed on fine photographic paper, which has a pearly luminescent finish. When making the book I wanted to focus on the energy of the island-- the mana that I see and feel when I go out with camera and pack to photograph Kauai's incredible nature. I find that this energy heals my spirit and mind, and in this time of uncertainty, I wish to share this healing power with you all.
My mom and dad received an advance copy of Images of Energy and my dad surprised me with a text that read, "Page 39 is my favorite." To be honest I had no idea which image he was talking about and had to inquire which one it was that he liked. He replied, "Full Moon Rise and Palm Trees." This photograph was taken looking across Nawiliwili Harbor towards the new Timbers Resort in Lihue. I would have never thought that this image would be my dad's favorite. But that's part of the fun of the book. Looking through the over 100 photographs and finding the one that you that speaks to you most clearly.
Much of my photography is based on intention: planning; revisiting; studying the behavior of animals and ocean; and reconnaissance of trails and wilderness areas. I think this meditative process comes through when viewing the book as a whole. The images come from 8 years of living and photographing on Kauai. I think the oldest image is from the spring of 2012 and the newest is from the summer of 2020. In a sense it is a retrospective of my time on Kauai and my relationship with the island. And the book was made during a time when we all had ample chance to reflect on what the hell it is we are doing.
Be healed by Kauai. Let Images of Energy be the medicine. Aloha, Lee
Mahalo!
The Curfew is OverThis morning, Tuesday May 6, 2020 the nightly curfew on Kauai expired. The nightly curfew? You ask. Yes, the government of Kauai enacted and enforced a nightly curfew from 9pm to 5am to combat the spread of the Coronavirus and to avoid overburdening the island's first responders. But now that curfew has been lifted so let's celebrate FREEDOM! with 10 images that were either taken between 9pm and 5am or where made possible by traveling during this period of darkness. I must be clear that none of this photographs were taken during the time of the curfew itself. These are all older images from the archives. Rest assured, during the time of the curfew I was at home watching Netflix, drinking beer, playing with the cats or cards or sleeping. :-) 1. In the Light of Lightning, Kilauea Lighthouse, December 4, 2012
2. Na Pali Coast at Sunset Seen from the Nualolo Trail, Koke'e State Park, July 1, 2015
Na Pali Coast at Sunset Seen from the Nualolo Trail is another photograph that wasn't taken after 9pm or before 5am, but it couldn't have been done with a curfew in place. You see, I hiked out here for sunset and then hiked back in the light of the full moon. The Nualolo Trail is a difficult 8 miles long trail, but it's one of the best hikes on Kauai. I had been thinking about doing this hike at sunset for some time and was happy to finally accomplish this goal. I'm thinking of doing it again real soon. I'll keep you posted... 3. Koke'e Night Sky and Paperbark Tree, Waimea, June 29, 2014
4. Shipwrecked, Poipu, July 3, 2017
Shipwrecked is truly a night shot. I took this photograph at 10:47pm at Shipwrecks beach in Poipu. I try for one night sky photograph a summer and this was the one for 2017. I like the contrast of milky way and ocean and the gradient illumination on the cliff. By the way, the light on the cliff is ambient light coming from the Grand Hyatt. I didn't add any light or utilize a head lamp or light beam for this one. I shot this photograph at 15mm using an ultra wide angle Zeiss Milvus prime lens, f/2.8, and a 30 second exposure. 5. Peering Into the Night Sky, Hanalei, August 30, 2019
Peering into the Night Sky was a long, late night. I started at the famous, old church in Hanalei-- Wai Oli Hui La'a-- but there was too much light pollution for me to pick up a lot of stars. After fruitlessly trying for something that the conditions wouldn't allow, I decided to move to Black Pot beach where I took this photograph-- at 12:33am. Here, I again used a head lamp to light up the pier. This technique is called "light painting". It takes some trial and error, but once you get it dialed in it can be an effective technique to have in your bag of tricks. 6. Super Blood Moon, Kulikoa Point, January 20, 2019
A lunar eclipse turns the full moon red. These are so much fun to photograph. This eclipse occurred quite early in the evening, actually. And while this particular image was taken outside of the verboten times, the walk back to the car was a long one, and I didn't get back home till well after 9pm. So we celebrate the Super Blood Moon here! :-) 7. Super Blue Blood Moon, Moloa'a, January 31, 2018
The clouds lifted around 2:45 am and the stars shined brightly. I got dressed and made my way outside with camera gear to photograph the rare super blue blood moon— the first one since 1866. This photograph is from the peak, around 3:20 or so. I like these events that bring people together from all over the world. It makes me feel connected and happy that nature is the connector. 8. Night Dance, Koke'e State Park, August 12, 2015
“How can we know the dancer from the dance?” ~ William Butler Yeats This is my favorite photo from a night of amazing star gazing in Koke’e State Park. I hoped to photograph a meteor shower, but was unlucky. I don't think I caught a single one. 9. Closer than You Think, Polihale State Park, June 24, 2014
The stars are closer to us than we realize. Our dreams are closer than we think. And so, too, are our fears. Let's brush them aside and grab our dreams. 10. 3 Sisters, Salt Ponds Beach Park, July 14, 2015
Golden hour on a west side morning can be quite special. But if you are staying on the North Shore it can be a very early start and a long drive past many wonderful sunrise spots along the way. I lived on the North Shore of Kauai for 10 years and wanted to to try something different on this morning. So we packed up the camera gear and coffee and made a day of it on the west side, stopping first at Salt Ponds for this photograph of palm trees gently blowing in the breeze. Now, I live on the west side so I can make it down here every morning if I wished. Funny though. I'm thinking about North Shore sunrises now that the curfew stay pau. Stay safe and healthy! Aloha, Lee
An Intimate Look Along the Alakai Swamp Trail
Life is all around you.
In most sections of descent and ascent the boardwalk breaks off into fern-lined steps.
The planks become squeezed by mosses, ginger, tree ferns, and ohia trees.
There is one easy stream crossing as the trail descends an Ohia grove and then rises to the swamp a few hundred feet above.
The Way back? This way, please.
Relax and Unwind along the Alakai Swamp Trail.
Time to head home. *** All photos in this post were taken on April 28, 2020. While on this day I was unable to see Hanalei Bay from the Kilohana Vista I have seen it before-- at sunrise, during the middle of the day and just before sunset, too. If you are going solely for the view, then I would say go as early as possible. But if you are going for the overall feeling of joy, then go whenever the time is right for you. Happy hiking! Aloha, Lee
Kauai Lockdown Walks
Since the lockdown began-- and after I self quarantined following my return from Bolivia-- I've been taking long walks up a local hill. Most every day, and mostly in the evenings I slip on my sneakers; grab a camera or two and head up the hill. Most days I take my 300mm +1.4 extender (in case I see an owl along the way). I usually pair it with a 70-200 for scenics and clouds. The walks are more about clearing my head than photography. But if it looks to be a stellar sunset, then I'll take a tripod along just to be ready.
Some days I handle the lockdown better than others. On the good days I'm productive: going through images; editing files; writing posts; communicating with clients. On other days I spend too much time watching Netflix. I'm currently watching The Office, Outlander, a drug show on Amazon Prime (I think it's called Zero, and Vida on Hulu. I am also doing a little reading, and think I will dive into some of my old favorites like Desert Solitaire and Zen Mind, Beginner's Mind in the next few days. Naomi and I also complete another Charlie Harper 1,000 piece jigsaw puzzle. This one was The Mountains of the Pacific Northwest. We have The Desert Mountains of California on backorder with Amazon. It should arrive with cat food first week of May.
Somedays I feel like I'm stuck in a break up song. Except it's a break up with the world around me. A break up with the nature I love. A breakup with the freedom of movement that I have (perhaps) taken for granted. In a way it's even a breakup with my gallery. I don't go in everyday. The chorus of the song is an abrupt end to old routines replaced with new ones that can so easily lead to anxiety.
An Empty Space, Waimea, Kauai This is why the evening walks have become so important to me. The walks, the sweat, the nature, the talks with Naomi keep me sane. Sure, I worry and I fret the politics and economics, but these two hours in the evening help me manage the thoughts, imaginations, and fears. The worries and fears don't disappear, but they diminish in importance when compared to everything natural that is around me.
What's keeping you sane during the lockdown? What new routine are you adding to your life that helps you stay healthy? What "walks" are you taking? What fears do you have? You are not alone. I am with you. Your neighbors are with you. The world is with you. We are all going through this together. As the soccer anthem sings You Will Never Walk Alone.
The Road Walked, Waimea, Kauai
Stay healthy. Stay positive. And know that we walk together. Aloha, Lee PS-- If you have any good NETFLIX recommendations let me know! Mahalo :-)
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