The Kohua Ridge Trail and Cloud Atlas
Cloud Atlas, Kohua Ridge Trail, Waimea Canyon, Koke'e State Park, Kauai, Hawaii
I hiked the Kohua Ridge Trail (Tuesday) and finished reading Cloud Atlas (Monday) so this blog will be a mixture of the two. Probably not any near as eloquent as David Mitchell, but bear with me.
The above photo, which I took from the end of the Kohua Trail, will serve as a visual guide to the most beautiful ideas that I found in Mitchell's masterpiece on time and transmigration.
Cloud Atlas may be the most inventive book I have ever read. True, it is not an easy read, but it is enjoyable and incredibly rewarding. I want to quote from the section set on the Big Island many years in the future, which in Cloud Atlas terminology, is many winters "after the fall." Zachary, a helper in the book, lies exhausted in the bottom of a canoe looking up at the Hawaiian sky
I watched clouds wobbly from the floor o' that kayak. Souls cross ages like clouds cross skies, an' tho' a cloud's shape nor hue nor size don't stay the same, it's still a cloud an' so is a soul. Who can say where the cloud's blowed from or who the soul'll be 'morrow?
Once I saw the clouds at the end of the trail, I knew I wanted to show them, crossing the skies; changing shapes; and generally being blown about like souls in lives.
Cloud Atlas is a beautiful book and highly recommended.
seen on a morning drive, waimea, kauai, hawaii
The Kohua Trail begins about two miles into the Na Pali-Kona Forrest Reserve off the 4x4 only Mohihi Camp Road (about 7 miles from the tarmac and Koke'e Lodge). The trail is relatively short-- 5 miles roundtrip-- but extremely varied. You'll walk through rich Koa and Lehua forests, smaller sections of Cedar and the occasional African Tulip.
lehua trees along mohihi camp road about halfway to the kohua ridge trailhead, koke'e state park, kauai, hawai
The trail crosses a stream early on, and then climbs and descends through softly padded sections of earth covered with Koa leaves, wild flowers and a variety of moss.
A typical Kohua Ridge trail scene, Koke'e State Park, Kauai, Hawaii
Koa tree leaves flank the trail, and in some places are so heavy that you must push them back with both arms as you progress along the seldom hiked trail, Kohua Ridge Trail, Koke'e State Park, Kauai, Hawaii
After about two miles or so, the trail begins to open up and you realize that you are walking on a ridge that is right in the middle of the majestic, red and green Grand Canyon of the Pacific.
Clouds and Canyon-- the view from the Kohua Trail Vista (don't know if you can see him or not, but the tiny black speck on the lower left is a wild goat that was just rambling along the lower (dangerous) ridge), Kauai, Hawaii
We hung out here for nearly and hour, just watching the clouds cross the sky like souls traveling through time. All total we were out on the trail for 5 hours and didn't meet another hiker the entire time. During the way back, Naomi told me a story about one of her friend's boys who said to nature once, "Thanks for having us." Indeed, thanks for having us.
Lines on Bark, Kohua Trail, Kauai, Hawaii
Fingers Crossed, "Angel" moss on lehua tree along the Kohua Trail, Kauai, Hawaii
PS
Usually when we hike in Koke'e we plan on camping for the night. Recently we've been pitching our tent and stringing our hammock at the Kawaikoi Stream campsite. This site, and the nearby Sugi Grove campsite, both require a vehicle with four wheel drive (and preferably a little lift, too). But the campsite near the Koke'e Lodge has many tent only sites that offer privacy, tables, and water. We've spent many a pleasant night there, as well. Either way, if you do decide to camp, please purchase your permit through the Hawaii State Camping Reservation System at https://camping.ehawaii.gov/camping. It's fast, easy and the nominal permit fee helps to maintain the upkeep of our state parks. Mahalo for your kokua!
Aloha,
Lee
jungle hike to hanakapi'ai falls
hanakapi'ai falls, kauai, hawaii
A couple of weeks ago Naomi and I hiked to hanakapi'ai falls. The trail is probably the most hiked trail on kauai and all of the guide books talk about it so I want do too much here other than post a few pics of what we saw during our 8 mile jungle excursion.
zen stones, hanakapi'ai beach, kauai, hawaii
Two miles in and you are at hanakapi'ai beach. The name is a little misleading because in the winter time it ain't much of a beach. More like a stone patch in front of swirling ocean.
leaning towers of the napali coast, hanakapi'ai beach, kauai, hawaii
Needless to say, in the winter time you should not swim here. And if you ask me, summer time, too. Be careful crossing the stream, too. The water was a little high the day of our hike and it took us a while to find the best place to cross. But safely across, we stopped at the stone patch took some pics; ate some nuts; and enjoyed the quiet morning, knowing that within a few hours the place would be full of people. If you want a quiet hike, you gotta start early.
jungle trail to hanakapi'ai falls, kauai, hawaii
The trail is always muddy in winter. Just expect it. Near daily winter rains in the valley don't give the trail much time to dry out. So unless you hike in the summer (and even then areas of mud are likely) just know that you will get muddy. Nothing you can do about it. Just watch your footing as much as you can. Naomi and I like hiking sticks or trekking poles. They really help out, especially coming down slick rocks with muddy shoes.
the womb, hanakapi'ai falls, kauai, hawaii
This is the end of the trail-- hanakapi'ai falls. Total feminine energy back here. It's like walking into Mother Earth or Mama Kauai. Fecund nature. The spirit of birth and renewal. Fresh and cool. It's a total trip to experience. I recommend it. From here your turn back and hike 4 miles to ke'e.
one more look, hanakapi'ai falls, kauai, hawaii
jungle light, jungle stream, hanakapi'ai valley, kauai, hawaii
favorite view, kalalau trail, kauai, hawaii
Aloha,
lee
All photos in this blog are available to purchase at light source photo gallery in kapa'a or online. Email lee at [email protected] for sizes and further information. Mahalo.
choose love
a little wild and uncontrolled (fantasy), kauai, hawaii
I am reading The Narrow Road to the Deep North by Richard Flanagan now and am moved by it's story of love, war, horror, endurance and humanity. The juxtaposition of the narratives of a group of Australian POWs forced by the Japanese to build a ludicrous railroad line through the deep jungles of Thailand and Burma (Myanmar) and a love story compel the reader to see the utter stupidity and barbaric nature of war. While reading about the atrocities and horrific conditions of the POWs I am begging to be brought back to love. I am literally longing to turn the page on the wartime narrative to be embraced by the excitement and joy of being with one who loves.
mimicry, kauai, hawaii
I'm almost done with the book and recommend it to anyone interested in history, the War of the Pacific (the Pacific theater of WWII), Japanese history, Australian history, and just great literature. The novel won the Man Booker Prize for 2014 and appeared on numerous 2014 best of year end lists.
driftwood under moving sky, kauai, hawaii
All of the photos in this blog come from two days at an east side beach. The opening pic, a little wild and uncontrolled,is my favorite of the group. I let the exposure run a bit, and while it is actually overexposed, i like how it adds a sense of fantasy to the scene.
This next shot below was taken on day two. I wanted to go back and revisit the half buried driftwood and see how "proper" exposure would affect the mood. Of course, each day is different and day two brought a near cloudless and radiant sky.
radiant sky, kauai, hawaii
following the line, kauai, hawaii
changing light, changing life, kauai, hawaii
the surreal is the real, kauai, hawaii
choose love, kauai, hawaii
aloha,
lee
repetition, appreciation, and learning to listen
old time kauai, tunnels beach, kauai, hawaii
Last week i spent three consecutive mornings at tunnels shooting long exposures with a 10 stop neutral density filter. Sometimes i find that repetition helps me better appreciate the changing light and the variable nature of a scene. Weather fronts and tides, wind and clouds will all play with the mood and conditions. It's all a reminder that I am only there to record and to communicate the energy and life force rather than force my energy, envy and desire onto mother nature.
old time kauai (3:1 ratio), tunnels beach, kauai, hawaii
I am currently reading God Is Red by Vine Deloria. In this classic text on Native American spirituality Deloria presents Native American religions as a spirituality grounded in space (place) rather than time (history). It is an interesting and well supported view, and one that i find compelling. As a landscape photographer, i am constantly seeking the spiritual and transcendent in a moment that begins in a place (space).
I also found, hidden in one of the chapters of the book, a great quote by the French existentialist writer Albert Camus. In The Rebel, an essay by Camus on the individual and society, he writes "When nature ceases to be an object of contemplation and admiration, it can be nothing more than material for an action that aims at transforming it."
the little rainbow that could, tunnels beach, kauai, hawaii
This I believe is a key lesson. Because when we stop trying to transform our surroundings we can begin to transform ourselves. So let us contemplate nature. Let us admire her. Let us go deep within her and learn from her teachings. Repeatedly.
the dawn of movement, tunnels beach, kauai, hawaii
the dawn of movement (1:1 ratio), tunnels beach, kauai, hawaii
I also found the following quote in Deloria's delightful book. This one is by Walking Buffalo, a Stoney Indian from Canada who provides insight on our unwillingness to listen:
"Did you know that trees talk? Well they do. They talk to each other, and they'll talk to you if you listen. Trouble is, white people don't listen. They never learned to listen to the Indians, so I don't suppose they'll listen to other voices in nature. But I have learned a lot from trees; sometimes about the weather, sometimes about animals, sometimes about the Great Spirit."
Let us listen to the trees. Let us learn about the Great Spirit. Let us be taught.
migration, tunnels beach, kauai, hawaii
Each day is different. Each day is new. Each tree will talk to us if only we would listen.
Listen to the waves. Listen to the wind.
Going into nature helps us listen. Nature will tell us of the Great Spirit, and in learning about the Spirit we will learn peace.
Repeatedly.
doves of peace, tunnels beach, kauai, hawaii
all photos in this blog are available to purchase at light source photo gallery in kapa'a, kauai or by email at [email protected].
mahalo.
aloha,
lee
practice
morning routine, pinnacles, poipu, kauai, hawaii
"And we talking about practice." ~ Allen Iverson
I really enjoy sports and my favorites are college football (Ole Miss) and NBA basketball (Lakers). So anytime I think about practice, or just the word practice I gotta give props to AI because his practice rant is so classic. In the sports world practice is the thing you do when you aren't playing the game. Even though you are playing and running your body through game simulations and strategies, practice is the time when the results, technically, don't matter. That's reserved for the game when wins and losses are recorded and referenced. But the reality is the results of practice actually influence the game in terms of how well you are prepared to play. In this context AI's infamous practice rant-- while certainly entertaining-- represents a true misunderstanding. Shunryu Suzuki, author of my favorite book-- Zen Mind, Beginner's Mind-- would even encourage you to believe that it's all practice and that there is no game. I imagine he would say something like the game is little mind playing tricks.
overflow, pinnacles, poipu, kauai, hawaii
I've been thinking about practice recently because I am slowly getting back into my practice-- yoga and meditation. After opening my gallery my mat time dropped significantly. Or as one of my yoga friends likes to say, "I fell of the mat". But I'm slowly getting back on, re-establishing my practice and intentions. And my photography is benefitting. Of course it should. The practice brings peace and clarity and helps me see, which in turn helps me to communicate more precisely and thematically more consistently.
blending in, poipu, kauai, hawaii
winter solstice rolls in, poipu, kauai, hawaii
a splash at sunrise, along the heritage trail, poipu, kauai, hawaii
floating rainbows and bokeh, ironwoods pine, poipu, kauai, hawaii
thoughts, ironwoods pine, poipu, kauai, hawaii
Oh, and yoga has definitely helped me on the hikes and squats and stretches to get that unique shot and perspective. Now, I just gotta keep the practice going.
Aloha,
lee