Kauai recently had a perfect east swell fill in from Nawiliwili to Anahola. Here are a few action shots of Kauai's very talented wave riders. All photos were taken with the Canon 1 DX II and Canon 300mm f/2.8 II Lens.
The masked rider emerges from the explosion of white water and aims down the line. I love how the all natural sun screen (don't harm our reefs!) masks this body boarder's face, making him appear like a villain or super hero from an action flick.
Pulling in and slowing down. Notice how this surfer's left hand is on the outside rail of his surfboard? Well, he's doing that in order to get leverage so that he can pull himself down the face of a right breaking wave. In surfing, he's considered a goofy footer because his right leg leads, leaving his back to face the right breaking wave. It's likely he feels more comfortable on a left breaking wave where he would be directly facing the front of the wave. Anyway, when your back is to the wave you need to find some king of extra momentum to position yourself in the pocket or sweet spot of the wave. That's what he is expertly doing here. Notice, too, his right hand touching the wave, almost as if he is drawing a diagonal line on the wave. He's doing that to slow himself down, hoping to "get tubed".
Tubed. Shacked. Pitted. Barreled. Ecstasy. I've only experienced it once-- for a nano second on a small little wave at Honolulu Bay, Maui. Let's be clear-- it was nothing like this. This surfer is so much better! And I just love this photo. I love how the surfer's body matches the shape of the wave. Being one with nature in single minded focus. Adapting our position and posture so that we can better accept the gifts of nature.
Slash n Gash
In Perfect Position. This body boarder is in perfect position for a long ride down the face of the wave. To ride a body board in this manner takes a great deal of skill and technique. Watching these rippahs perform was inspiring. They were full of stoke and shared it with the gallery along the break wall. The afternoon show will be a wonderful memory for me for many years to come.
Flipped Out! (Oh, he nailed the landing, too!)
Go with the Flow